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Whenever assembling a list of London’s top restaurants, one might anticipate well-known award-winning names. However, situated near the top among these food titans is a modest salonu found in a distant corner of northern London.

An Shocking Honour

The little Turkish spot, concentrating in the culinary delights of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been named the fourth top restaurant in the metropolis by a influential gastronomic guide. The recognition has left the proprietors completely shocked.

“I’m totally astonished,” says a proprietor, referring to his family’s dedication that culminated in their modest restaurant securing such a high spot on a respected 99-strong list.

A Charm of Simplicity

This compact space, which used to be a simple cafe before its change into a sought-after food hotspot, has retained much of its original feel. It fits just more than 20 people and, except for the vibrant live cooking performance, the interior remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky place,” comments the owner.

A Namesake Creation: Tantuni

In the end, it is focused on the food, and this eatery certainly excels. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated delight. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to maintain a tender consistency.

The meat is then added into a massive pan with flavours and oil, which are added in gradually. When the flavourful mixture bubbles up, handmade lavaş—a soft bread—is slapped on top to absorb all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley are added before the flavourful meat is wrapped tightly inside.

It is often enjoyed with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a strong burst of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, sharp onions and rich, paprika-red oil bringing it all together.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The leading food critic described this dish “among London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the eatery’s künefe goes down a treat. It is doused in a more modest amount of syrup than is typical, resulting in it a richer, toastier and more balanced taste.

Outranking the Giants

Interestingly, this modest restaurant has ranked above several renowned three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself just behind the summit of the list, just after other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave the restaurant satisfied for less than £25, similar meals at high-end establishments can start at significantly more than that amount.

The Philosophy of Warmth

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants listed and is situated well beyond the city’s central zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an costly city. It is expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and finest food but I don’t agree with that,” says the owner.

“I feel what is crucial is hospitality, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The view is supported by the list’s editor, who suggested that if he was in a role of power, he would “require to make every chef in London come to this spot as a final lesson, to show them the pitfalls of overthinking, and to demonstrate what is possible if you do a few – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Journey of Perseverance

Unlike many chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food didn’t work at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I am very happy of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

Many restaurants require years to find their footing, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its popularity is owing to tireless, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum used to be extremely tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. All of it is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she balanced a personal life but her friends would support her to help her. She had children and a house to care for as well. All of these responsibilities forged her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he reflects.

An Accomplishment for the Community

This restaurant’s recognition is set to have meaning beyond its own doors. “In my opinion numerous people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” says the owner, highlighting the wider meaning of this gastronomic achievement.