Tempting kebabs, scented biryani, and airy, cloud-like desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has long been a dream destination for epicures, with residents and tourists alike swearing by its remarkable cuisine.
An International Accolade
Last month, UNESCO designated it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – including it in a prestigious group of global cities and kindling hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's exceptional food. With this status, it becomes part of a international community of over 400 urban centers across over 100 countries dedicated to promoting "creativity as a key factor of development that sustains urban life".
The accolade "stands as proof of its profound culinary traditions and lively gastronomic culture," as noted by a spokesperson from UNESCO's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to find a place in this coveted list of 70 global destinations internationally.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The honor for this venerable city is little surprise to its residents or avid food lovers. Many echo the view that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO designation, this adored, lively, and diverse city – the capital of India's largest state – is finally in the global gaze for what has perennially shaped its essence: an immense devotion for food.
"'What will be cooked, how should it be prepared' is a continued conversation from morning until night in most homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are actually evaluated by the excellence of food that comes out of your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The Nawabi City – as it's widely known after its 18th and 19th-century opulent Muslim rulers – is renowned for its succulent kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were invented, perfected, and taken to extraordinary levels in their opulent kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were centers of culinary innovations, merging Iranian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were developed. Legend has it that the galouti kebab was devised to feed an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His culinary artists ground the meat with papaya, kesar, and spices and made it so fine that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the biggest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a gentle, leisurely heat, with the pot's lid securely sealed with a flour paste.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
In addition to the well-known kebabs and biryani, the cooks also created a vast array of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a haven for vegetarians.
The local Baniya community's cuisine doesn't just showcases seasonal produce but also provides the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Virtually on every corner, there are small establishments and carts – hidden delights that are extremely loved by the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, large gatherings start milling around from the crack of dawn at a famous tea stall to get a piping hot cup of milky masala chai, served in kulhads, along with incredibly soft buns covered in hand-churned white butter.
In the morning, one can head to a simple joint located in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was set up, the place is still highly popular for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also offers special treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert savored in the winter. The technique of making it is scientific and demanding. The cook beats the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its incredible airy feel.
On chilly mornings, street vendors line up in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. A number of though note that their children are reluctant to master the skill.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has often said that the city's rich food legacy positions it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, however, will occur only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – shaped by generational food businesses, from modest street carts to lively restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The global recognition, it is anticipated, will inspire more people globally to discover these stories and visit the city to savour the culinary delights of Lucknow.